do you know how much mounting depth you have?

And do you actually fit in that car?  Did you have to take out the front seat and just sit on the back one to drive

On a budget, use the Dayton Reference 6s....  They would be no where near the Extremis on the bottom end, but I think they really sound good in car...  And they are in 4 ohm....  I don't think the depth would be much of an issue.  While the Extremis motor is compact, it still sticks out just about as far as a standard motor...

At a higher price, Scanspeak 7".....  They are better quailty than the extremis, and arguably sound better.  But, at the cost of a BIG motor hanging out back...  They may not have the same xmax as an Extremis, but they really are a better all around driver, IMO, for everything BUT a subwoofer.

Also look into some of the Seas 6-7".  Madisound has them at good prices, decent build quality.

My cost no object door components would be Scanspeak 7" paper/carbon fiber and either accuton or Scanspeak tweeters.....  But that could be easily $1k per set when it's all said and done with crossovers.....  

But I have built maybe 10-12 speakers using the 7" Scanspeak with the SD-1 motor, escpecially back in the mid 90's with all the kits my friend Lance had designed based on the Proac response series, and let me tell you, to this day I have not heard a better all around 7" driver than the Scanspeak..

6'4", and yes nick... I fit fine, Though I wish the steering column was mounted an inch or two higher... knees stick out a bit wierd.

I don't think mounting depth is much of an issue, but, if I can stick to a Neo motor that would be great. Power windows, so I might have a lil motor in the way. Not sure, haven't cracked open the doors, and don't plan to until the day of the install.



Mike, the Scanspeaks are probably awesome... I know dan designed the extremis to do everything the 8545 could... but in a smaller package. Lil more than I want to spend, but maybe.


I think that prolly is my best bet, do that and just sell all my gear that I have right now.

6.5" front and rear with 4" mounting depth ability on the 2 door and 6.5" fronts with 6x9 rears on the 4 door. 6x9's having about 5 inche mounting depth.

Im becoming fond of the Focal mids and woofers, but I hate their tweeters. Id probably stick around Mikes suggestions and run active cross overs to save from dealing with making passives. Depends on what you have left I guess and how much you want to spend.

Stop being a puss and just open up the doors to find out the mounting depth. Even a derelict like me can take apart a car.

So you're trying to do this without a sub? Personally I'd just figure out my budget and then work from there.

I still haven't seen you climb into that thing, I need to watch that.

later,
b

my old lady has a yaris liftback.  I put an alpine type r  10"  and alpine class d in the back.  Have fun getting your power routed through the firewall.  This was easily the most difficult and ironic power wire install.  I ended up having to loom it and run it underneath, along the frame rail.  The durn cab is so small, it makes the furkin sub sound purdy good!

thats what i was hoping to do at first.  With its cab forward design, the dash is what seemed like 2 feet thick.  I poked and prodded to find a good spot to drill on the firewall, but was far from being able to access it from the cab without removing airbags, heating ducts ect.  You think "Yaris?  EASY!"  but that little bastard gave me fits.  Even the steering column boot was inaccessable.  There is a spot under the master cylinder where the factory wire loom goes through, but it is still a pain in the balls to get at.  I explored running it inside the drivers side front quarter panel too.  After becoming way to intimate with this car, i said screw it, and ran it underneath.