are you sure it's Pico?  

i am not sure if you missed one or not...there is milli but come to think of it, i have never heard of a cap rated in millifarads...i guess they just skipped milli and decided to say 1000uf instead of .001millifarads...oh well



i've seen the CPS term used before...when talking to the retired EE he kept using the term condenser and i was confused for a while there but i figured out what he meant

never heard middler used and i've seen squacker used here once or twice

so that's where B+ comes from.  I've seen that on quite a few modern car audio amps and wondered.  Though I still suppose it would make sense since those amps are connected to a battery.

I'm guessing it would be.

Okay here is the color scheme for the case.  It was sandblasted as showed in previous posts and the primed and sealed with a black.  Then the Base coat was a custom mixed blue with a blue pearl in it.  After the first base coat, the color looked really dark.  It was a midnight blue and when changing viewing angles, the color would flop to a dark purple, almost black.  After the second base coat it brightened up a bit but was still pretty dark.  

Last, a clear-coat mixed mixed with a blue-green pearl was sprayed on.  That really brought out the blue and looked better than i had expected. Depending on the viewing angle, the color will change from dark to light.  When it really gets hit with some light you can see the pearl come out with the mix of blues and greens.  It's one thing to see pictures of it, but it is really something to see in real life in the sunlight.

I'll Let the pictures do the talking for now.

This is the bottom piece.  It gives a rough idea how the color changed from light to dark.


The case sitting on the stove top.

I dunno what others think, but that top panel turned out pretty tight!

Good question with the faceplate.......what do you plan on doing with that chrome plated or aluminum brow piece? Polish or brush it? Paint?

Is the faceplate and brow thingie all one piece?
You got the black and white striped faceplate panel with the silkscreening for the selector/volume/tone...etc..

What are you going to do with the silkscreened lettering? Wing it without it?
If there was a way to pinch the letter images and burn new screens and re-apply......

Those '62 Chevy dashboard knobs are kinda scary...then they could work I suppose.....

Here's my thought, but it may be a bitch. Have the brow piece brushed, or the whole thing faceplate and all.
Too bad the faceplate isn't attached somehow.......fabricate a brushed aluminum back panel/faceplate, anodized blue. With the brow piece brushed and anodized clear. Then use nice aluminum knobs of some sort.

Or maybe a medium to lighter gray....I dunno about white...

I felt the same way when I first started point to point wiring.
Especially de-soldering some old 45 year old mess, with cooked solder joints, crumbly solder, dirt, wax, and oils. It's a sick PITA mess.....

Use the solder sucker to get the majority of the solder, and then wick up the rest with the solder braid.

When you are de-soldering, use a shitty tip and keep it clean and tinned. That old solder trashes tips, and you will more than likely tag some insulation.

Keeping the tip fresh will aid with heat transfer. You wanna get in there, get the joint melted, and suck it out as quick as you can.

The more practice, the quicker you will get at it. Sometimes I want to save a resistor for example, and that's where it pays to be fast. If the joint is getting too hot, let it cool off for a couple minutes.

Then there is the infamous resistor or cap lead wrapped 50 times around a socket pin. And once you get all the solder sucked/wicked out, you still have to unwrap the lead. Fuck! Broke a lead....Fuck! Broke a pin!

Changing a pin on a nine pin socket is a bitch.....Octals are easy...