I've made it to layout and heater/B+ wiring. It's too hot lately to do this shit.

Hopefully Mommy kicks down some Birthday cash tomorrow......then I'll start ordering some parts.

I'm thinking Mundorf silver oil's for coupling caps, with a combination of Riken, Holco, and Mills resistors. I have a Elna 100uF 35 volt Cerafine for the cathode bypass. The orginal aluminum multi-capacitor can formed up really nice with my new Heathkit tube regulated DC supply, so it should hang for awhile....I'll know when I fire it up.....

I'll try to keep single paths limited to just the leads of the parts themselves for the shortest path, but I may have to use at least one single wire.
I have some nice tinned hyper-litz stranded teflon insulated 20 or 22 awg wire pinched from a Gates console I can use.

The ole retired EE audio buddy of mine always said to save the fancy boutique caps for the single-ended amps. The reason being I suppose is one can hear more differences in the coupling capacitors in such a simple circuit.

So for that reason I'm gonna take a chance with some fancy coupling capacitors. Even though Dan would still give me a big ration of shit for it.....

Ok, my LaScala's are in operation. I may as well spring for parts with regards to this little amp that has been sitting 6 months or better.

Since this amp has low parts count, I'll spend a few bucks on resistors and skip carbon composition and carbon films for a change. I'll try some metal films and bulk foils.

For 120 ohm cathode R for the output tubes, I'll use a Mills five watt wirewound.
For the PS dropping R's of 100 ohms and 4700 ohms, more Mills five watt wirewounds.

The 1500 ohm cathode resistors for each side of 6EU7 will be Caddock MK-132 3/4 watt R's. The 6800 ohm feedback R's will be Caddock MK-132.

The 220K load resistors for 6EU7 will be Caddock Mk-132, and the 470K grid R's for the output tubes will be Caddock Mk-132.

The R's for the input (100K/1 meg/47K) will be PRP 1% metal films. (Like Holco.)

I can't justify spending 30 bucks a pop for two coupling caps, so I'll just use a couple K40Y Russian Military caps. It's a excellent cap for the money, hermetically sealed oil and mylar or some sort of film.

I'm thinkin' all the metal film resistors with a fancy plastic film and foil coupling cap may make things sound a little on the analytical side. And the Russian oil caps may help smooth things out....who knows....I'm pondering.

I'll probably use the Relcap Polystyrene for the feedback compensation caps at 330 picofarad, and pick up some silver micas at that value as well.

I should have my head examined dumping this kind of time and cash into a shitty little console amp....

Hell, I bought the little console amplifier last April. You still have penty of time to drag your feet.

I broke down and emailed the parts order.....I should be making payment in a day or so....

If you want to delve into the world of low-power single-ended tube amplfiers, you may want to ponder on some high efficiency speakers down the road.

The little single-ended pentode 6BQ5 circuit only puts out 4.5 watts per side max...as in clipped out...average listening levels around 1.8-2.0 watts per side.

I'd would feel safe to say that one needs a speaker of around 98 db or better sensitivity to get the most out of that amp.
Maybe as low as 92 db would work, but the loudness factor would be rather low.

Maybe a simple 6BQ5 or 6V6 single-ended circuit to get started.
These tubes get rather close to directly heated single ended triode sound in plain ol' pentode mode.

Almost 50 bucks for literally a handfull of resistors......ouch...

Caddocks ain't cheap, and I'm sure I'm paying some sort of mark-up over the retail.
Same with the Mills wirewounds.

I really don't why Caddocks are spendy......Maybe it's the process in which they make them.

There are Tantalum resistors that are high cost. I never tried them....I've used Caddocks and like them.

There is a Riken brand resistor that is either a carbon comp or carbon film in high tolerance. These are big bucks, too.
But I can't justify that kind of money for that type of resistor.
For 4-5 bucks each, one could buy quite a few run of the mill 5% carbon films of the same value and sort through them to aquire a tighter tolerance.

Some of the purists say that the old vintage tube amps sound best with the carbon composition resistors. I dunno.....I have always used what I had on hand as long as it measures ok.
I don't really buy it, and am willing to find out.

The little Magnavox amp of mine has a total passive part count of 26.
With the Transformers and tubes, the total part count is 33.
My 2A3 SET amp is WAY more than that.

A simple circuit with few parts should make things easy to discern differences in types of parts, be it coupling caps or resistors.

Got this far so far....

The only bitch will be those big assed 1000 volt  coupling caps....

Yup, the coupling caps are parts on hand. I was going to buy some fancy boutique caps like Mundorf or something, but figured these Russian military caps will do fine.

These are pretty much the Russian equalivent of a Sprague Vitamin Q. Folks claim they are paper in oil, but one guy has torn them apart and they seem to be like a mylar or some sort of foil/film in oil.

Excellent caps for the money, IMO....I couldn't see spending 20-30 bucks a pop for coupling caps when I had these.
 
I've been using them in my 2A3 SET amp with good results.

I kinda think that using a oil cap will help overall voicing, and keep things from getting too sharp sounding with using all those metal and bulk foil resistors.
I guess I'll see.....

The main reason is I spent too damn much on the resistors, and getting way over budget for a little POS console amplifier. Just throw the oil caps in and move on.

It's pretty much soldered up. I just have to install the coupling caps, the input R's, the feedback loop leads, and a couple grid R's.